(1935-1950)

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The Retro Era lasted through World War II and featured unique jewelry designs unlike any other era before it.
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Retro Jewelry Information

Retro Era Madeira citrine and diamond ring in a rose gold and platinum setting

In the 1940s, there was a shortage of precious metals due to their use in World War II.  Restrictions were placed on the use of precious metals, especially in luxury items such as jewelry.

Due to the shortage of precious metals during the Retro Era, it wasn't uncommon to recycle your old jewelry when making a new piece.


METALS COMMONLY USED

​• Low Karat, Multi-Tone Gold
(Rose Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold & Green Gold)

Due to its use in World War II, platinum was rarely used during the Retro Era.

Jewelers began alloying lower karat gold in order to stretch their limited supply, resulting in more colored gold jewelry.


METALWORKING TECHNIQUES

​• Mystery Setting

Pavé and invisibly-set (mystery set) designs continued to be popular through the Retro Era, as it was a creative way to use smaller, less expensive gems without sacrificing beauty.


TYPES OF JEWELRY WORN

​• Rings
​• Brooches
​• Large, Hollowed Necklaces
​• Charm Bracelets
​• Covered Watches
• Articulated Jewelry

Many Retro Era jewelry pieces have a heavy appearance, but are often lightweight due to hollowed construction.  Snake chains and gas pipe necklaces had a big look with hollowed links.

Charm bracelets became extremely popular during the Retro Era.  Charms were made of nearly everything imaginable, ranging from tourist attractions to puppies, and could be heard jingling on the wrists of women of all classes during the 40s.

Clip brooches remained in style and were worn singly, or in pairs.  During the '40s, movement was being incorporated into jewelry.  Trembling petals, flexible branches, and articulated wings gave life to already beautiful jewelry.


GEMS COMMONLY USED

​• Diamond
​• Ruby
​• Amethyst
​• Aquamarine
​• Sapphire
​• Moonstone
• Citrine
​• Glass


COMMON MOTIFS

​• Bows
​• Ribbons
​• Scrolls
• Woven & Braided Chains
​• Flowers
​• Ballerinas
​• Birds
​• Panthers, Lions & Tigers

Woven and braided chains were in style, which allowed jewelers to make larger looking pieces without using as much precious metal.

Retro Jewelry Gallery

​All photos courtesy of Scott Papper, GIA GG, AJP, CMA (NAJA)

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