Global Gemology - Rare Gems & Jewels
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NATIVE AMERICAN GEMSTONES

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Below is a list of some commonly used, and some not-so-commonly-used, gemstones found in Native American Navajo and Zuni jewelry.

turquoise


​Turquoise is quite possibly the most popular gemstone used in Native American jewelry.  Turquoise was readily available to Southwestern artisans due to multiple mines throughout Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and more.

Turquoise smaller than a grain of rice are used in Zuni Petit Point stonework jewelry, while massive chunks of uncut turquoise are bezel-set in bold, Navajo squash blossom jewelry designs.
The turquoise in these vintage Navajo earrings has beautiful matrix visible, recessed slightly beneath the polished surface.
Native American turquoise earrings

coral


​Coral is a type of organic gemstone that was brought to America from the waters of Spain and Italy.  Coral ranges in color from white, to pink, to blood red.

Pink coral is known as "angelskin color", and can be quite valuable, depending on quality.

Red coral is known as "precious coral".  Its deep, blood red color is generally the most sought after, and is the most valuable type of coral.
Vintage Southwestern pendant/bolo tie featuring precious red coral, natural turquoise and an animal claw
Bolo tie set with red coral, turquoise and a bear claw

Animal Claws


​Animal claws are sometimes used in Southwestern jewelry.

Bears, coyotes, badgers, and other animals' claws are used in artistic, Native American jewelry.
Vintage Southwestern bolo tie, by Joe Barela, featuring natural turquoise, precious red coral and 2 bear claws.
Bolo tie set with bear claws, turquoise and red coral

onyx


​Onyx is a type of chalcedony that occurs in various colors, sometimes with parallel bands of different colors.  Black onyx is the most commonly found color of onyx set in Navajo and Zuni jewelry.
Black onyx cabochons are bezel set in this sterling silver Navajo concho belt set, by Al beres.
Concho belt set featuring hammer set black onyx

jet


​Jet is an organic gemstone, formed from petrified wood.  Often confused for black onyx, jet is commonly found in Zuni inlay work.
Jet is an organic gem, formed from petrified tree wood, and is commonly found in inlay jewelry pieces such as this Zuni piece
Carved jet and mother of pearl pietra dura-style inlay

mother of pearl Shell


​Mother of pearl is an organic gem, found inside the shell of mollusks, that's known for its iridescent phenomena.
Vintage Zuni sterling silver Bic lighter case featuring a mother of pearl, turquoise, amazonite & serpentine stone-to-stone inlay
Lighter case with mother of pearl, turquoise and serpentine inlay

spiny oyster Shell


​Spiny oyster shell ranges in color from red to orange to yellow.

Spiny oysters, also known as spondylus, aren't actual oysters, but rather a family of mollusks.
Vintage Southwestern Navajo spiny oyster shell & sterling silver concho-style brooch
Spiny oyster shell brooch

Tiger Shell


Tiger shell is known for its spotted appearance, resembling the fur of a wild animal.

Tiger shells come from large sea snails, known as cypraea tigris.  These snails are found on the ocean floor, near coral habitats, off the coasts in the Indo-Pacific region.
Vintage horse belt buckle by Helen & Lincoln Zunie, featuring a tiger shell, spiny oyster shell, turquoise and jet inlay in sterling silver
Horse belt buckle featuring a tiger shell, turquoise, jet and spiny oyster shell inlay

lapis lazuli


Lapis lazuli is an attractive blue gem composed of lazurite, often mottled with white calcite.  It's known for its golden pyrite mineral inclusions.

Lapis was available to Southwestern artists due to mines located in California and Colorado.
Delbert Gordon Navajo cuff bracelet set with multiple gems, including lapis lazuli.
Inlay featuring lapis lazuli, turquoise and oyster shell

opal


​Opals are known for their unique phenomena called "play-of-color", which occurs when light passes through its grid-like, stacked silica structure.

Opal deposits were discovered in Nevada, and were sometimes seen in Southwestern jewelry.
Vintage Zeta Begay Navajo dragonfly pendant set with opal and dyed purple howlite
Dragonfly pendant set with opal & dyed purple howlite

malachite


​Malachite is a green gemstone known for its attractive green banding.  Malachite was readily available to Southwestern artists, due to mines located in Arizona.
Malachite is known for its attractive green banding.
Malachite banding

amber


​Amber is an organic gemstone formed from fossilized tree resin.  Unlike diamonds, inclusions in amber can actually increase its value.  Amber with unique inclusions can be very valuable, especially pieces with spiders, lizards or other creatures trapped inside.
Vintage freeform amber ring set in a custom sterling silver bezel setting
Handmade freeform amber ring

tiger's eye


Tiger's eye quartz is a brown gem with a phenomena known as "chatoyancy" created by its fibrous structure.
Tiger's eye is a phenomenal variety of quartz known for its chatoyant, fibrous structure.
Fibrous structure of tiger's eye

All photos courtesy of Scott Papper, GIA GG, AJP, CMA (NAJA)

  • HOME
  • ABOUT
  • SHOP
  • SERVICES
    • APPRAISALS
    • EXPERT WITNESS TESTIMONY
    • SELL YOUR JEWELRY
  • GEMOLOGY
    • GEM ENCYCLOPEDIA
    • THE ART OF GEMOLOGY
  • JEWELRY EDUCATION
    • DIAMOND FACTS
    • JEWELER DIRECTORY
    • JEWELRY PERIODS
    • POCKET WATCHES
    • NATIVE AMERICAN JEWELRY
  • GLOSSARY