turquoiseTurquoise is quite possibly the most popular gemstone used in Native American jewelry. Turquoise was readily available to Southwestern artisans due to multiple mines throughout Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and more. Turquoise smaller than a grain of rice are used in Zuni Petit Point stonework jewelry, while massive chunks of uncut turquoise are bezel-set in bold, Navajo squash blossom jewelry designs. |
Native American turquoise earrings
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coralCoral is a type of organic gemstone that was brought to America from the waters of Spain and Italy. Coral ranges in color from white, to pink, to blood red. Pink coral is known as "angelskin color", and can be quite valuable, depending on quality. Red coral is known as "precious coral". Its deep, blood red color is generally the most sought after, and is the most valuable type of coral. |
Bolo tie set with red coral, turquoise and a bear claw
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Animal ClawsAnimal claws are sometimes used in Southwestern jewelry. Bears, coyotes, badgers, and other animals' claws are used in artistic, Native American jewelry. |
Bolo tie set with bear claws, turquoise and red coral
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onyxOnyx is a type of chalcedony that occurs in various colors, sometimes with parallel bands of different colors. Black onyx is the most commonly found color of onyx set in Navajo and Zuni jewelry. |
Concho belt set featuring hammer set black onyx
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jet
Jet is an organic gemstone, formed from petrified wood. Often confused for black onyx, jet is commonly found in Zuni inlay work. |
Carved jet and mother of pearl pietra dura-style inlay
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mother of pearl ShellMother of pearl is an organic gem, found inside the shell of mollusks, that's known for its iridescent phenomena. |
Lighter case with mother of pearl, turquoise and serpentine inlay
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spiny oyster ShellSpiny oyster shell ranges in color from red to orange to yellow. Spiny oysters, also known as spondylus, aren't actual oysters, but rather a family of mollusks. |
Spiny oyster shell brooch
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Tiger ShellTiger shell is known for its spotted appearance, resembling the fur of a wild animal. Tiger shells come from large sea snails, known as cypraea tigris. These snails are found on the ocean floor, near coral habitats, off the coasts in the Indo-Pacific region. |
Horse belt buckle featuring a tiger shell, turquoise, jet and spiny oyster shell inlay
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lapis lazuliLapis lazuli is an attractive blue gem composed of lazurite, often mottled with white calcite. It's known for its golden pyrite mineral inclusions. Lapis was available to Southwestern artists due to mines located in California and Colorado. |
Inlay featuring lapis lazuli, turquoise and oyster shell
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opalOpals are known for their unique phenomena called "play-of-color", which occurs when light passes through its grid-like, stacked silica structure. Opal deposits were discovered in Nevada, and were sometimes seen in Southwestern jewelry. |
Dragonfly pendant set with opal & dyed purple howlite
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malachiteMalachite is a green gemstone known for its attractive green banding. Malachite was readily available to Southwestern artists, due to mines located in Arizona. |
Malachite banding
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amberAmber is an organic gemstone formed from fossilized tree resin. Unlike diamonds, inclusions in amber can actually increase its value. Amber with unique inclusions can be very valuable, especially pieces with spiders, lizards or other creatures trapped inside. |
Handmade freeform amber ring
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tiger's eyeTiger's eye quartz is a brown gem with a phenomena known as "chatoyancy" created by its fibrous structure. |
Fibrous structure of tiger's eye
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`All photos courtesy of Scott Papper, GIA GG, CMA, RGA, AJP.