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ROLEX COMPANY HISTORY

Picture

Rolex is a premier watch manufacturer that has been producing luxury timepieces since 1905.

​Scroll down for chronological information on the history of the brand.

ROLEX PHOTO GALLERY
ROLEX SERIAL NUMBERS
Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex.
Photo courtesy of Rolex

1905 - founded in london

The company was founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis, in London, England.  Wilsdorf had a vision of eventually producing precision watches that could be worn on the wrist.

1908 - "rolex" name is born

Hans Wilsdorf wanted his company name to be short, simple, and easy to pronounce in any language.  After considering hundreds of names, he ultimately decided on Rolex.

​1919 - swiss made

In 1919, the operations were moved from London to Geneva, Switzerland, a city known for its precision watches.  Montres Rolex S.A. was registered a year later, in Geneva, in 1920.

​1926 - oyster case

Rolex developed the first waterproof and dust proof watch case, dubbed the "Oyster Case".  This is also when Rolex began stamping unique serial numbers on their cases.

​1931 - perpetual movement

Rolex invented the first self-winding movement with a Perpetual rotor.  This system is still used today in automatic watches.

​1945 - datejust

The Oyster Perpetual Datejust, now synonymous with Rolex, was first introduced in 1945.  The Datejust was the first self-winding wrist chronometer with a date window on the dial.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust with blue dial and domed bezel

1945 - Jubilee bracelet

The now-iconic Rolex Jubilee bracelet was introduced in 1945.
Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet.

1947 - oyster bracelet

The Oyster bracelet was developed as an alternative to the Jubilee, using less parts per link, providing a slightly sturdier build.
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster Bracelet.

1950 - Mercedes hands

The Mercedes-style hands, that Rolex has become known for, were first introduced in 1950.
Rolex's trademark Mercedes style hands on an Oyster Perpetual Submariner

​1953 - explorer

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer was produced to commemorate Sir John Hunt and Tenzing Norgay's successful ascent of Mount Everest while wearing Rolex Oyster Perpetuals.

1953 - submariner

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner was the first divers' watch that was waterproof up to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet).  Its unidirectional rotating bezel allows the diver to read their immersion time.  Since it only rotates in one direction, if accidentally knocked, it will err on the side of caution.
Rolex developed the Oyster Perpetual Submariner in 1953

1954 - cyclops

Rolex patented the Cyclops in 1953 and began using it on watch crystals to magnify the date, starting in 1954.
Rolex patented the Cyclops in 1953, and began using it on watch crystals, in 1954, to magnify the date.

​1955 - gmt master

With the introduction of transcontinental flights in 1953, it became important for international travelers to know the time in multiple time zones.

In 1955, Rolex developed the GMT-Master to meet the needs of airline pilots.  It became the official watch of several airlines, including Pan Am.  Its most notable feature is its two-tone bezel (a.k.a. Pepsi bezel), separating daytime and nighttime hours.

1956 - milgauss

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss was designed to meet the needs of the scientific community, resisting magnetic fields up to 1,000 gauss.  The shield protecting the movement was made from ferromagnetic alloys selected by Rolex.  CERN, the European Organization for Nuclear Research, performed rigorous testing on the watch and confirmed it to be the perfect magnetic shield. ​
Rolex Milgauss

​1956 - day/date

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date, only available in 18 karat gold or platinum, was the first watch to display the date and full day on the dial.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date President II Ref.#218235 in solid 18 karat rose gold with black concentric dial

1956 - president bracelet

The President bracelet was introduced in 1956, fitted to the first Day-Date watch.  The President bracelet is an instantly-recognizable look that is associated with wealth and status.

​1957 - Lady datejust

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust was the first ladies' version of a Rolex date chronometer.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust in stainless steel with mother of pearl & diamond dial, and a customized diamond bezel.

​1960 - deep sea special

Throughout the '50s, Rolex ran rigorous testing on an experimental watch, called the "Deep Sea Special".  It was manufactured to withstand the most extreme circumstances.

In 1960, an experimental submarine, named "Trieste", successfully descended into the Mariana Trench, the deepest known depression into Planet Earth.  Lieutenant Don Walsh and Jacques Piccard emerged from the Trieste unscathed, as did the Deep Sea Special, which was in perfect working order after being 10,916 meters (over 7 miles) below sea level.

The Deep Sea Special is known for its signature thick, bubble crystal.​
Rolex Deep Sea Special circa 1960.
Photo courtesy of Rolex

​1963 - daytona

The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona was introduced to meet the needs of endurance racing drivers.  These new-generation chronographs were large, waterproof, and featured tachymetric bezels to calculate average speed.

1967 - sea dweller

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea Dweller was developed to meet the needs of deep sea divers.  The Sea Dweller was waterproof up to a depth of 610 meters (2,000 feet).

​1971 - explorer ii

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II was developed to meet the needs of polar explorers, speleologists, and others pushing the boundaries of exploration.  The watch is known for its signature 24-hour hand, which comes in handy when at the poles, or deep inside a cave, where daylight isn't available.

1972 - hack feature

Movements were developed that allowed the seconds hand to be stopped when the crown is pulled out, allowing for better time synchronization.

​1977 - oysterquartz

The Rolex Date 5100 was the precursor to the OysterQuartz, but was produced in very limited quantities.  Only 1,000 units were produced, and subsequently sold out quickly.

After 5 years of development, the Rolex OysterQuartz was introduced in order to compete with the trend that shifted towards quartz movements over mechanical watches.  For 25 years, OysterQuartz movements were used in Datejust and Day-Date models.

Although OysterQuartz movements were made for 25 years, they are considered very rare, with less than 25,000 OysterQuartz movements are in existence.

1977 - quickset

​1977 marked the introduction of quite possibly the most convenient invention to date:  the QuickSet date function.  The QuickSet feature allowed for fast and easy date adjustment, saving both time and finger callouses.

​1977 - SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL

In 1977, Rolex began introducing sapphire crystals to popular models such as the Day-Date, Datejust, and OysterQuartz.  Sapphire crystals were much more resistant to scratches than plastic or mineral crystals.
Sapphire crystal on a customized Rolex No-Date Submariner.

1978 - sea dweller 4000

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller 4000 was introduced, and was waterproof up to depths of 1,220 meters (4,000 feet).

​1985 - 904l steel

Rolex became the first watch brand to incorporate the use of 904L steel in the production of their watch cases.  904L steel is an excellent anti-corrosion metal, commonly used in aerospace and chemical industries, that can be bright polished to a mirror-like finish.

1988 - double quickset

The Double QuickSet function was introduced on the Day-Date ref. #18238, allowing both the Day and Date wheels to be QuickSet, by rotating the crown in opposite directions.

​1992 - pearlmaster

The Pearlmaster was a more high-end reinterpretation of the Lady-Datejust.  Available today exclusively in 18 karat yellow gold, white gold, or Everose gold, and can be ordered with diamond, ruby, or sapphire accents.

1992 - yachtmaster

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yachtmaster was introduced, strengthening ties between Rolex and the sailing community.  The Yachtmaster's rotating bezel was used to measure lapsed time.  It only rotated in one direction, so if you were to accidentally knock it, it would err on the side of caution.

1998 - SOLID END LINKS

The end links of Rolex bracelets were upgraded to solid links.  The new design was much more durable than the previous thin, v-shaped attachments that were more easily damaged.
The end links on this Rolex Oyster bracelet are the thin, v-shaped end attachments, prior to Rolex switching to solid end links.
Rolex upgraded to solid end links in 1998, as pictured on this Rolex Oyster bracelet.

2001 - Laser etched crystal

Rolex sapphire crystals were all laser etched with the Rolex Crown logo.
Authentic Rolex Crown etched into the underside of the crystal, at six o'clock.

​2005 - ceramic bezel

In 2005, Rolex developed the Cerachrom Bezel, a hard ceramic material virtually impervious to scratches and UV damage.  The engraved 24-hour markers are coated with a thin layer of platinum.
Rolex Cerachrom Bezel aka black ceramic bezel with platinum-coated 24 hour markers.

​2007 - yachtmaster ii

In 2007, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yachtmaster II regatta chronograph is the first watch to incorporate a programmable countdown with a mechanical memory.  This regatta chronograph complication allows yachtsmen to cross the line as soon as possible after the starting gun sounds.

​2008 - deepsea

In 2008, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea was designed for extreme underwater exploration.  Utilizing the exclusive Ringlock System, the case is able to withstand water pressure equivalent to the weight of 3 tons on the watch crystal.  The Rolex Deepsea can go more than 100 times deeper than any human could physically survive.

​2012 - sky dweller

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller was a technical masterpiece intended for world travelers.  In a 42 millimeter case, it has an easy-to-read dual time zone function, as well as an innovative annual calendar that only needs date adjustment once per year.  To set its functions quickly and easily, it features a new interface:  the rotatable Ring Command bezel.

All photos courtesy of Scott Papper, GIA GG, AJP, CMA (NAJA)

  • HOME
  • ABOUT
  • SHOP
  • SERVICES
    • APPRAISALS
    • EXPERT WITNESS TESTIMONY
    • SELL YOUR JEWELRY
  • GEMOLOGY
    • GEM ENCYCLOPEDIA
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  • JEWELRY EDUCATION
    • DIAMOND FACTS
    • JEWELER DIRECTORY
    • JEWELRY PERIODS
    • POCKET WATCHES
    • NATIVE AMERICAN JEWELRY
  • GLOSSARY