HISTORY OF DIAMOND CUTS

When you hear the word "diamond", chances are you immediately think of today's sparkly, modern brilliant cut diamonds.  However, the art and science behind diamond cutting has come a long way since the first table-cut diamonds of the 1400s.

Scroll below for a timeline on the history of diamond cuts.

The Point Cut

Photo courtesy of Lang Antiques

FIRST SEEN:  PRE 13th CENTURY

Diamonds have been cherished by man for thousands of years, having been considered sacred objects as far back as the Roman Empire, B.C.

Diamonds naturally form in octahedral-shaped crystals (2 pyramids connected at their base).  Although diamond cutting techniques hadn't been invented yet, the mere thought of cutting a diamond crystal was considered taboo.

These rough diamond crystals weren't cut, but rather crudely polished.

The Table Cut

Photo courtesy of 1stdibs

FIRST SEEN:  13th CENTURY

The first cut and polished diamonds date back to the 1200s.

Notable jewelry historian, Jack Ogden, reports to have seen Medieval Islamic jewelry dating back to the 13th century containing table cut diamonds.

​These table cut diamonds were very primitive, simply sawing one of the points off of the octahedral crystal, leaving a "table" that would be crudely polished.

The Heart Shape

FIRST SEEN:  PRE MID-15th CENTURY

Heart shaped diamonds have been around prior to 1463, when they were referenced in private notes between the Duke of Milan, Galeazzo Maria Sforza, and her confidante, Nicodemo.

She wrote "He commands a Titus Livy just as you might a heart-shaped diamond", when speaking about the quests of the affluent Cosimo de Medici of Florence's political dynasty. This proves that heart shaped diamonds existed prior to the mid 1400s.

In 1562, one of the most famous heart shaped diamonds of all time was gifted to Queen Elizabeth by Mary Queen of Scots in the form of a ring

The heart shaped brilliant cut diamonds of today feature a total of 58 facets, much like other modern brilliant cutting styles.

The Pear Shape

A modern pear shape brilliant cut diamond

FIRST SEEN:  1475

In 1475, the first pear shaped diamond was created by Flemish (now Belgium) diamond cutter, Lodewyk van Burcken shortly after inventing a diamond polishing wheel, or scaif.

The invention of this polishing wheel would transform diamond cutting forever.  It allowed him to place asymmetrical facets onto diamond rough, creating fancy shaped diamonds.

Much like the modern round brilliant and oval brilliant cuts, the pear shape brilliant cut also has 58 facets.

The Emerald Cut

An emerald cut diamond

FIRST SEEN:  16th CENTURY

The emerald cut originated some time during the 1500s.  Lapidaries developed this cut specifically to prevent chips and breaks during the cutting of emeralds.

Emerald cuts are usually cut from a long, slender crystal that dictates their shape.  Like Asscher cuts, emerald cuts also have cut corners, but are usually rectangular shaped and have smaller steps.

Emerald cut diamonds became extremely popular during the Art Déco Era of the 1920s-'30s.

The emerald cut is a very revealing cut, so clarity is important.

The Rose Cut

A rose cut diamond pendant

FIRST SEEN:  16th CENTURY

In the 16th century, faceting techniques were developed and the rose cut was invented.

Belgian and Dutch diamond cutters were cutting thinner pieces of rough into rose cuts:  a flat-bottomed stone with a domed top covered in diamond-shaped facets.

Rose cuts became even more popular throughout the 17th century.  Their shapes became bulkier and their domes became higher as their popularity grew.

The Old Mine Cut

A Victorian Era old mine cut diamond cluster ring

FIRST SEEN:  17th CENTURY

The earliest brilliant cut diamonds were being cut and polished as far back as the 17th century.  Old mine cushion cut diamonds were asymmetrical squarish diamonds with rounded corners.

Old mine cut diamonds were commonly used in jewelry until the Victorian Era of the 19th century.

The Marquise Cut

A modern marquise brilliant cut diamond

FIRST SEEN:  MID 18th CENTURY

The marquise cut, or navette cut diamond was invented during the mid 1700s when King Louis XV of France commissioned his jeweler to cut a diamond in the shape of the mouth of his mistress, Madame de Pompadour.

Elongated, fancy-shaped diamonds such as the marquise brilliant cut can sometimes display an area of reduced brilliance at the center of the diamond, which resembles a bow tie.  Well-cut stones can hide this bow tie effect with excellent proportions, producing a more brilliant diamond.

The Old European Cut

A fancy colored old European cut diamond ring, in platinum, circa 1920s-'30s Art Déco Era

FIRST SEEN:  18th CENTURY

While old European cut diamonds can be traced back to the 1700s, they weren't frequently seen in jewelry until the Art Déco Era of the 1920s-'30s.

​The old European cut was an improvement of the lumpy old mine cut that preceded it, but was not quite as brilliant as modern round brilliant cuts that would later be developed.

Like old mine cuts, European cut diamonds have an open culet.  However, European cuts are round and don't share the same squarish shape as mine cuts.

The Asscher Cut

An Edwardian Era Asscher cut diamond three-stone ring with round diamond accents

FIRST SEEN:  1902

Joseph Asscher invented the Asscher cut in 1902, making it the first ever patented diamond cut.

Although the Asscher cut was developed in 1902, they weren't regularly seen in jewelry until the Art Déco Era of the 1920s-'30s.

Asscher cuts are octagonally-shaped step cuts, with large steps and a high crown.

The Modern Round Brilliant Cut

A modern round brilliant cut diamond

FIRST SEEN:  1919

The "ideal" proportions for a round brilliant cut diamond were invented by Belgian mathematician, Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919.  Although the Standard Round Brilliant Cut was first developed in 1919, they weren't commonly used in jewelry until the 1940s.

The modern round brilliant cut has a total of 58 facets.

In the 1950s, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) developed a "Cut Classes" system which later evolved into today's Diamond Cut Grading Scale for round diamonds, which ranges from Excellent to Poor.

The Modern Oval Brilliant Cut

An oval brilliant cut diamond engagement ring

FIRST SEEN:  1957

Although antique oval cut diamonds date back to before the 14th century, today's modern oval cut diamond wasn't invented until 1957 by Russian-born diamond cutter, Lazare Kaplan.

This modern oval brilliant cut diamond features 58 facets (just like the modern round brilliant and pear shape brilliant cut).

The Radiant Cut

FIRST SEEN:  1977

The radiant cut diamond was created by Henry Grossbard in 1977 by combining elements of the emerald cut and brilliant cut.

Radiant cut diamonds cut-cornered rectangular brilliant cut diamonds.  They have the shape of a traditional emerald cut, but are usually far more brilliant due to their cutting style.

The Princess Cut

FIRST SEEN:  1980

The princess cut diamond was developed by the Ambar Diamond Company of Los Angeles, California in 1980.

The princess cut is a square (or slightly rectangular) brilliant cut.  Unlike cut-cornered radiant cuts, princess cuts have pointed corners.

(All photos courtesy of Scott Papper, GIA GG, AJP, CMA (NAJA)