(1895-1910)
The Art Nouveau era was a relatively short period that produced some of the most unique, creative, and even risqué jewelry of all time.
The Art Nouveau era was a relatively short period that produced some of the most unique, creative, and even risqué jewelry of all time.
Art Nouveau Jewelry Information
Art Nouveau Era green gold, rose gold and blue zircon brooch
Art Nouveau literally translates to new art, which describes this short, but sweet, jewelry period perfectly.
While Belle Époque jewelry was being produced during the same time as Art Nouveau jewelry, they couldn't be more opposite. Art Nouveau jewelry designers rebelled against the monochromatic designs of Belle Époque jewelry and opted for colorful and creative, handmade designs inspired by nature and/or the female figure.
Art Nouveau jewelry was so creative and perhaps ahead of its time that it wasn't actually appreciated by the masses until years later. The designs were so bold and sometimes risqué, featuring motifs of a nude female figure. Women of the era were dressed extremely conservatively, so jewelry items like this were considered to be taboo.
METALS COMMONLY USED
• Multicolor Gold (Yellow Gold, Green Gold & Rose Gold)
• Silver
Tri-color gold and 4-color gold pieces were common in the Art Nouveau era, mixing different combinations of yellow gold, white gold, rose gold and green gold.
METALWORKING TECHNIQUES
• Satin & Sandblast Finish
• Repoussé
• Plique-a-Jour Enameling
Art Nouveau Era jewelry is known for its soft, matte or satin finish.
Plique-a-jour enameling is a very beautiful, and difficult, enameling process that resembles stained glass windows with no backing.
TYPES OF JEWELRY WORN
• Pendants on Long Necklaces
• Choker Necklaces
• Brooches
• Hair Ornaments & Combs
GEMS COMMONLY USED
• Diamond
• Natural Pearl
• Opal
• Moonstone
• Aquamarine
• Amethyst
• Citrine
• Amber
• Chrysoberyl
• Tourmaline
• Demantoid Garnet
• Zircon
COMMON MOTIFS
• Female Figure
• Nature Scenes
• Animals
• Floral Bouquets
• Insects
• Mythological Creatures
Art Nouveau jewelry featured creative, asymmetrical designs often inspired by nature or the female figure.
Colorful enameling was popular in various forms: cloisonné, basse-taille, and plique-a-jour.
Art Nouveau Jewelry Gallery
All photos courtesy of Scott Papper, GIA GG, AJP, CMA (NAJA)